Nothing else in Beijing declares winter like the arrival of the city’s piles ‘o cabbage. My first year here, I thought snowfall on Old Hallow’s Eve heralded the dreaded Beijing winter; my second, no snow in November, but wretchedly freezing winds told me it was time to haul out my down jackets; this year, it’s mid-November, and – dare I say it? – it’s still relatively mild (i.e. I am not clamouring for government heating yet). What has yet to fail me though, as a marker of the season, is the sight, and smell, of the city’s hoard of government-subsidized cabbage.… READ MORE | 6 Comments
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In a debate over what to eat in Yunnan, it’ll always be a tough call. So many glorious options! So little time. On a recent and tragically food-deficient trip to Yunnan, I was denied the chance to stuff my face in a manner that paid proper respect to this region’s culinary cornucopia. There are, after all, only 24 hours in a day, and much of my five days was spent zooming around in a car looking for commodities and stopping too late to eat, or stuck with a conference buffet. My obvious go-to choice here would be mushrooms, but I won’t speak here of the stunning variety of wild mushrooms that this Southwestern province is famous for. Partly because it’s not the season, partly because it pains me that I didn’t get to eat mushroom hotpot. Instead, in honor of springtime in this land of eternal Spring, I’ll post an ode to the edible art growing about the region that I found plucked and ready to fry. As flowers are fragile, they ship poorly and taste best when cooked the same day – making these ingredients hard to come by in the desert that is Beijing.… READ MORE | 4 Comments
One of the surprising wonders of living here is discovering some things you coveted back home are actually easy to find in China. I’m not talking about Sichuan peppercorns, or a big bottle of beer for 3 kuai (40ish cents). I’m talking Meyer lemons, one of the sought-after treats from my life in Northern California. This little treasure is actually native to China, as I found out last year through the fabulous Hawberries & Kumquats (thanks Shelley!). No one seems quite sure what a Meyer lemon’s origin is, but this luscious citrus is best described as a cross between a lemon and an orange – slightly sweeter, thinner skinned… all the bright lemonosity you’d like yet without the sour pucker or bitter peel you’ve learned to expect. Thin skins means Meyers don’t travel well, so unless you’re lucky enough to live near Meyer lemon trees…… READ MORE | 10 Comments
Tags: COOK, lemon, LIFE, maison boulud
Burma. Still quite the land of mystery, with only a smattering of tourists. For those who have been thinking of going, I heartly encourage it. It’s stunning in its beauty, the people unbelievably warm, and there is always the scent of something roasted in the air. Burmese food is not well-known internationally (how many Burmese restaurants have you seen?) and though I enjoyed many meals there, I see why it’s hard to translate. It’s cuisine is influenced by its geography – borrowing flavors from neighbors India, China and Thailand, and centuries of migration between the countries means that in many parts of Burma, the local food will be dominated by one of those cuisines. Here’s a rundown of the best ghetto street food we ran across while running across Burma.… READ MORE | 6 Comments

As a variation on our beloved theme of the Tianjin-style egg crepe jianbing, I’ll post an ode to jianbing‘s cousin, the jidan guanbing (鸡蛋灌饼), also roughly translated as egg crepe. Both are fantastic for late-night munchies or more traditionally, a quick on-the-go breakfast. As we’ve lovingly recorded in past posts, the jianbing is a hefty sandwich-sized crepe filled with egg, a deep-fried crisp and assorted green bits. The guanbing is a less glamourous creature, a dough pocket with an egg poured into the center (the term guan 灌 means “to pour”). It’s smaller, about the size of a pancake, and the oily crisp is replaced by some healthy lettuce (though it can be argued there is nothing healthy about a greasy guanbing).
As the humble, runty cousin of the glorious jianbing, it doesn’t get much notice. However, in Suzhou off the west gate of the university, I met a guanbing genius.… READ MORE | 2 Comments
Suzhou is famous for being one of the most beautiful towns in China. It’s been called the Venice of the East for it’s graceful canals and gentle lifestyle, and in China, there’s a saying that goes “Heaven above, Hangzhou and Suzhou below.” I did more than my fair share of wandering around this city, and thoroughly enjoyed myself despite freezing temperatures. But whilst most people focus on looking down, eager to take in the sight of the myriad of calm waterways criss-crossing the old town, I would venture that one should also look up.… READ MORE | 3 Comments
Are those angry emoticons on shrimp-paste-bellies? Yes, yes they are.
Today there’s a Chinese edition of Food & Wine, now owned by Great Wall Wine, but where would you get your food porn in Reform Era China? Recently I scavenged a handful of food magazines, all from the early eighties, from the booksellers at Panjiayuan, the “antiques” market located on the southeast third ring road. They are completely delightful.… READ MORE | 7 Comments
Tags: bad food porn, LIFE, magazines
Cafeteria no. 7 at Tsinghua University is incredibly crowded. The space issue is compounded by the reservation system, which is a fancy way of saying that students stake out seats with a mitten, hat, or notebook. Walking into the cafeteria at rush hour – 12 pm sharp – is an entire lesson in strategery. Otherwise you may find yourself with a full plate of whatever RMB 4 buys you these days, no seat, and nowhere to go but the -2 C weather outside. Groups complicate the issue; it’s really best just to go with one other friend to lunch. On a particularly crowded day, I once saw a guy chowing down on his plate of… READ MORE | 3 Comments
Tags: cafeteria, LIFE, lunch, students, tsinghua university








