street food

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When devouring a jianbing, the biggest question usually is – just what is that crispy thing in the middle? In Tianjin guozi (果子) is used – usually translated as a Chinese doughnut (youtiao 油条) – but the youtiao recipes were very intimidating.  Plus you need a large vat of oil to properly fry the doughnut, leaving youtiao up to the professionals, methinks.

Lucky for us, we quizzed our favorite jianbing vendor at the east gate of Tsinghua University and discovered jianbing crisps are much easier. She proudly displays a little handwritten sign on the side of her cart: “Self-fried fritter (zizha baocui 自 炸薄脆).”  How does one create a fritter?  Her answer: she goes to a wonton wrapper vendor, who cuts extra-large wonton skins for her.  She heats up super-hot oil then lightly drops the wrapper on the oil (“就烫一下”), whereupon it bursts into this lovely, airy confection.… READ MORE | 12 Comments

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How many jianbing photos does a blog need, really?

We think it’s important that the unabated love affair with jianbing on Beijing Haochi continues with these photos from a vendor located off the corner of Jiaodaokou Dajie and Gulou Dajie.  She makes her jianbing with exceptional loving care.  There’s no slopping here, no hurry, no pressure because of customers lined up during rush hour, just the smooth and practiced caress of jianbing batter over the crepe pan; broad swathes of evenly painted sauces; the use of one.and.a.half crispy fried wonton skins, ending up in one of the best jianbing we have eaten in Beijing.… READ MORE | 19 Comments

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It’s Chinese New Year, and I’ve left the bitter cold of Beijing to pass the holidays on warmer shores. First stop, Kuala Lumpur, then off to Borneo. Malaysia’s population is a true hodgepodge of races, and the Chinese (mostly southern Chinese) make up approximately a third of the population. No surprise, then, that the Chinese food here is quite excellent. Some food is, in fact, superior to that found in mainland China, Hong Kong, or even Vancouver (recently declared by Conde Nast’s Traveler as home to the best Chinese food in the world). I am talking duck here.  The roast duck (shaoya 烧鸭) usually associated with Cantonese cuisine is unlike the famous Peking duck (kaoya 烤鸭)… READ MORE | 3 Comments

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Sauces

Tianjin is the birthplace of jianbing, but here in Beijing there is no shortage of this street food. In researching how to make our own version of this street snack, we are shamelessly eating jianbing as we see fit (which is often).

This stand outside the Wukesong Photographic Equipment Center appealed because 1) this Beijing variation was fragrant with toasted black sesame seeds sprinkled on top, and 2) they were enormous. For 2.3RMB (40 cents) we got this one-pounder, two-egg jianbing monster that pretty much served as breakfast, lunch, and at least half of dinner.

Here is the step-by-step birthing of a jianbing.

1. A crepe-like batter is spread over a… READ MORE | 13 Comments

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Most people do not think of Tianjin as a tourist destination, but I went recently and loved it. First, you get to be harmonized (hexie‘d 和谐) on the express train, and the female attendants wear luxurious red wool pillbox hats decorated with the party emblem. Secondly, Tianjin is the birthplace of the egg crepe/pancake (jianbing 煎饼), known as jianbing guozi 煎饼果子 there.

Imagine if Jean-Georges Vongerichten, in this passage from a New York Times travel piece by R.W. Apple and requoted in Evan Osnos’s New Yorker blog, had eaten his jianbing in Tianjin instead of Shanghai (which indubitably is NOT the birthplace of jianbing).

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